Interesting mathmeticians analysis of surfing. He also points out the odd internet semantics of sitting in front of a computer on a web browser and calling it surfing. Also points out the incredible intricacy of waves, pointing out the artificial intelligence is far behind real life in this case.
(a) You're sliding down a hill of water that moves, and (b) Because you're sliding, you have the ability to move the board to the left or right beneath your center of gravity (by steering it), also the board will have very little tendency to move backwards, with the upshot that it's easier to balance on a moving board than on a still one.
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